Part 9

Italy

My first impressions of Italian officialdom was not a good one. The Italian border guards were brusque and largely unfriendly, heavily armed, and they helped reaffirm my opinion of Mediterranean types, initially formed in Spain, one that I did not have to modify much for the remainder of the trip. They're generally a bunch of macho goons! However, to be fair, there are many exceptions, and the regular carabineri were acting much less authoritarian that those border patrol guys. After a series of tunnel passages, we were suddenly in Italy proper, with the central mountains stripped already in antiquity of trees by the Romans for ships, fortresses and houses.

Venice 21 AUG 01

Stepping from surprisingly large railway station into the bright sunshine of noisy Venice, I stood in the crowded square in front of the railroad station, getting my bearings. There was a great bridge leading over what I believed to be the Grand Canal. In front of me there were what seemed to be ticket booths, with gangways leading to some small passenger boats. The street in each direction, along the canal was heavily crowded with walking people. I had an idea where I needed to go, and bravely bought my ticket for my ride on one of the usually packed water busses in the direction of the "galleria". The ticket agent knew that term and directed me to wait for the right correct boat number. There is no easing into this city. you jump in and let it carry you away. After the initial stunning ride on the canal, bordered by so many marvelous medieval and palatial buildings, I recognized the bridge where I knew I had to get off. The hotel was right next to the bridge and just steps from the waterbus stop. It looked exactly like the picture on their website. Venice, to me initially, appeared to be a lovely, photogenic, artfully arranged, grossly overpriced and overrated junk pile. Having said that, I certainly love the place and it has no equal on this world, but it is decaying badly, and I believe that there is not enough money in the world, certainly not in Italy, to restore and save it. Having walked and ridden all around, my opinion has not changed. Go visit it and enjoy it, while it is still there. Some years back it was sinking because of local industrial problems. They had been solved since (with European funds), but now, because of the rising waters due to global warming, it is slowly submerging again. I saw many of the formerly dry entrances of older buildings awash, meaning that the entire lower level is most likely submerged as well with all of the associated problems of long term exposure to water. Those buildings are as good as lost. Many once beautiful facades and their carved artwork have weathered into featureless blobs, often beyond any possibility of restoration. You can see cracked walls and peeling plaster everywhere. The good news is that the rats have not yet left. Large rats, apparently unafraid of people, are still everywhere in evidence at nights, and so one can assume that the city is relatively safe for some time. On the flip side, lots of money is being spent to maintain and restore some of the more important places in town and those will continue to delight and please the tourists, as well as bring much needed currency to that besieged town. While many of the lesser mansions are threatened, the centerpiece, San Marcos Plaza, is alive and well. One night, there was an old, lonely and unshaven man lying crosswise in one of the narrow alleys, where he apparently fell over. The water ambulance was on its way and huge crowds were caused by the obstruction. I snickered and said to myself, there's one possible future for me, impoverished, and having a heart attack in some distant place. On the other hand, near a market I saw another old guy, wearing a Hawaiian type shirt, laughing and carrying on like a kid with his very young and pretty Asian companion. Well...I have to say I prefer the latter possibility by a long shot. Am I shocking you a little with the assessment of Venice? Let's look at it this way. This once was a thriving, colorful, vivacious as well as powerful and immensely wealthy city and a little facelift, makeup, some splints here and there can't turn the brittle remains back into the youthful presence of days past. As the once fabled months-long carnival of Venice has faded into the mists of time, the city too has seen its day and we are reduced to observing its demise. The treasures that remain after Napoleon's rape of Venice are still spectacular, and the city is so different from any other place in the world, that it is definitely worth a visit. My hotel was directly next to the Venice Academy of Fine Arts Museum and what a place it is. In my opinion , aside from the palace and adjacent San Marcus Square, that museum would be the other really important place to the explore. Other than that, I also greatly enjoyed the many shops. Especially intriguing were the stores that specialize in carnival masks and even make their own out of paper maché and even leather. However, there are many other stores that have beautiful displays of unique artistic products by scores of talented individuals in Venice. In fact, two sides of San Marcus Plaza are lined with such stores and are a total delight to browse through. The Plaza itself was, at sunset and after dark, is a great place to sit and listen while live bands play popular music on one side, and classical on the other. I loved the romantic mood of that mysterious and ancient heart of the city.

My hotel was right on the grand canal. The great and unusual views from my window were somewhat offset by the ceaseless racket of marine traffic that had a tendency to be rather noisy at times. The canals are the arteries of Venice and the Grand Canal is its aorta. All of the goods that are sold around that city could be seen coming by on countless barges, and the main waterbus routes went through here as well. Add to that private motorboats, singing gondola drivers (with boom boxes, for those who had no voice - and realized it), and you have a very eclectic cacophony of sounds. On one of my days I took one of the water busses to Murano, the glass blowers' island. While much you see there is strictly touristy junk, there are some world class artists and galleries there. Usually such a gallery may just handle one or several outstanding artists, and their product is often in world-wide demand. I had lunch on the island and learned that the breadsticks they place on each table, for you to nibble on while you wait for your meal, are not free. So, DON'T TOUCH THE BREAD/CHIPS or any little pre-meal snack placed in front of you. You'll pay for every bit you snack on to the tune of 10-15% of the average meal. Pretty sneaky, because they know that we are used to getting those snacks free everywhere else. On the boat ride back I saw the funeral island, nearly flooded, and the church next to the graveyard, ditto, and being rescued and rebuilt. After getting back to the city I headed for the Jewish Center. It is alive and well and quite thriving. An interesting place to check out. The ducal palace was my other favorite place in Venice. It is absolutely awesome and the edged weapons collection may well be the largest and finest in existence. Great stuff and all in superb condition. I guess the French, when they stripped the palace, didn't think much of edged weapons, passé at that time and of little use to them, and left them in the armory. Today these are rare pieces that show the incredible Venetian armorers' craftsmanship and reflect the wealth and power that once made Venice a feared military contestant around the Mediterranean, all the way to Constantinople (Istanbul). Luckily, the French could not take the murals painted on walls and ceilings either and thus the entire history of Venice lies before you, beautifully painted and embellished, on the walls of the many palace rooms. I sighed on the Bridge of Sighs and then was among the last visitors to be swept out of the palace. A truly enjoyable and unforgettable afternoon. Don't hold your breath for ice cream in Venice. A lot of the locals eat theirs at McDonalds for a reason. The local gelato is for my taste way too sweet to have any real flavor and very soft.

Live Cam from the Grand Canal in Venice

Too soon once more it was time to depart Venice for Florence. I finally figured out how to change trains at Maestro to catch a surcharge-free express train to Florence. The railway clerks at the main station of Venice are not really helpful and often rude (reminded me of Cordoba and Seville), so it is up to the traveler to figure these things out the hard way. I went there the day before my departure and spent an hour to get this all sorted out. Deciding to find my way to the station on foot, I walked all around the city, enjoying its uniqueness until I suddenly saw a sign that said Ferrovia. It took me a moment to figure that one out, then I had it: The iron (Ferro) road (via). A little bit of basic high school or college education goes a long way when you're traveling. Following that sign led to another and finally I found the other bridge, I had noticed on the day of my arrival, across the Grand Canal that took me to the railroad station.

Florence 24 AUG 01

The Firenze main station was a busy place and the station-to-city access is made easy by long underground mall-like walkways. After finding my way from the station to my pensione (Feretti-see hotel listings), I was pleasantly surprised by being given a double room for the price of a single. The room was amazingly large and, I figured the bathroom alone was about the size of my Venice sleep chamber. The room was on the fourth floor and I had my first night of quiet and peaceful sleep since entering Venice. Unlike Venice, Florence is in excellent condition and, while retaining most of its many ancient architectural treasures, is nonetheless a modern and thriving place. To be fair to Venice, Florence is not sinking or subjected to a millennium of salt water and wet air either. Walking around, one can see road bricks that may well have been placed there by the ancient Romans to whom Florence already was a place to shop. The phrase "caveat emptor" (buyer beware), may well have been coined here. That has not changed and the city is still a center for Italian fashions and fashionable shops and malls. Add to that the impressive and unique collection of historical art and architecture, and you have a combination of things to see and do that no trip to Italy should do without.

Enjoy the art and history of Firenze

The tall towered square shaped Palazzo Veccio (the old palace) was a totally amazing experience to me. This is where Micelangelo's David was first revealed to the public, to simply stand there, out in the open in the large and beautiful square. A virtually perfect copy now stands in the exact spot. In fact, there are statues all over the place and since the 16th century, this was a place where artists would expose their art to the critical eye of the population. Bad marbles were often publicly derided and burned. One that should have been, according to Michelangelo, who considered it a waste of fine marble, was a statue of Neptune. Unfortunately, or rather wisely executed by the artist, it also had the face of the ruler of Florence and thus remains in the Piazza della Signoria until this day. When you see it, you can certainly agree with Michelangelo, whose work is so much more fluid and alive than the awkward and stiff looking Neptune. The plaza is probably the largest open-air collection of marble statues in the world and certainly the finest. Inside the palace, more of the same plus lavishly painted walls and ceilings. At least the unguided tour of the Palazzo Veccio is an absolute must. Additionally, in the immense throne room of the old palace, there is a video and computer graphics show of a most unique feature of the city. One of the Dukes of Florence, Cosimo I, decided that he needed a way to get from the palace to the administration center on the other side of the river in total privacy unseen and unhindered by the crowds. So, there exists a private corridor, high above the streets of the city, that leads through a church, through towers and various buildings up to and across the Arno River bridge. I think it may be open to visitors at certain times. Another totally unique experience is the cathedral called the Duomo. In the 14th Century, Fillippo Brunelleschi managed to build the huge dome, that covers the largest Catholic church in existence. The exterior of the entire building is marble-clad, and the inside of the dome is completely covered with murals. Come to think of it, just to build the scaffolding that allowed the painters to grace the ceiling of the dome with paintings had to be a 14th Century accomplishment, not to speak of the painting process itself. It is a stunning sight and wondrous ascent. Yes, ascent. One can climb up inside of the walls of the cathedral and the some up narrow steps between the inner and outer wall of the dome to the very top of that immense structure, to finally end up on the outside on the little top platform that sits on the peak of the dome. Do it very early in the morning and you'll have no crowds and can run up those steps - I did. On the way up or down, there is a balcony that was nearly invisible from below, that rings the entire dome on the inside, and is a great place to pause to get a close-up view of the murals of the dome, and a spectacular vista of the entire inside of the cathedral, lying darkly way in the depth below you. Once on the top, the view of Florence is breathtaking and makes the climb worthwhile for even the most reluctant climbers. Between the walls of the dome, you can see the huge timbers that are bolted together to form a ring around the base of the dome that gives strength to the structure. The architect has destroyed all notes but one that he apparently missed, and students of architecture, to this day, are attempting to discover his secret. After getting to the top and looking down at the church tower, I had no desire to even bother to go up that much more mundane, free-standing spire. In the basement of the cathedral, as can be found in many of them, there is an archeological excavation site that give the visitor an impression of the even more ancient roots of this grand building. Outside, right in front of the cathedral, there is yet another circular building to visit. You can't miss it. There are always crowds gathered to stare at the gilded bronze main doors, carved in high relief with scenes from the bible. This much smaller building, when compared to the Duomo, is also topped by a dome. This one, however, is covered on the inside with countless mosaic pieces to create an awe-inspiring ceiling, high above the marble floor of the Baptistry, as it is called. I smiled, thinking of the immense relief the artists must have felt when the final tiny mosaic piece had been placed and the huge ceiling with millions of pieces was complete. Florence can be enjoyed for weeks on end, without boredom creeping in. Whether you are wandering through the Uffizo enjoying unrivaled painting from all of the classic masters, even the building itself is a work of art, or whether you enjoy Michelangelo's steps, where you can see the younger people of Florence kick back, during leisure hours, high above the river below a commanding bronze of David. Or whether you simply wander the hills that border the river and that give Florence part of its unique, and at times physically very challenging landscape. It is a city that easily charms the visitor into staying on. And, not to forget, the harbor of the Medici, Pisa and its famous leaning tower is just a short train ride away to add yet another exciting aspect to a visit to Florence. Oh, did I mention fashions and shopping?

Rome 26 August 01

When the train pulled into Rome past initial glimpses of Roman artifacts, I had a moment of pause and reflection. Here I was at last, entering the heart of the ancient Roman empire. For months now I have seen the traces of its might and size, from North Africa (Volubilis) to England and Spain and parts in between. On this journey of mine, ancient Rome was a nearly ever-present historical and influential backdrop. So here I was, the last of the barbarians to enter the capital, following the footsteps of those who tore the ultimately enfeebled and bisected giant apart. The signs of where I was were all around. Aqueducts, crumbling ruins mixed in with modern buildings could be seen as the train slowed in the outskirts of this venerable old city. No culture in the ancient Western world escaped the influence of Rome's might and civilization. To be sure, the Italians of Rome are no more the old Romans than the Scandinavians of today are the old Vikings. Conquests upon conquest, first by Rome itself, slaves, mercenaries, and citizens of Roman territories, followed later by incoming tribes and nations all merged to create the Italians of today. Well, the clash of arms, the pillaging, raping, and burning was just a faint echo in the corridors of time now, and I let myself be transported to viewing what remained of the bygone glory of the old empire.

Pictures from Rome

Because the hostel I had originally chosen was quoted by phone to have no vacancyl (later they called back and said that a mistake was made), I had opted for the Hotel Jolie. (http://www.cosmic-pearl.com/Eurotel10.htm) A nice and quiet place near the Vatican, though with lousy breakfast. I told them to drop the fatty crap and offer yogurt and cereal. As elsewhere in Europe, the coffee is good, and the place friendly, clean and comfortable. I had no complaints. The hardest thing was the long walk to and from the subway station, especially when arriving with my 55lbs backpack and other stuff. Though once there, I found it extremely well located. A farmers market, virtually next door (R), and in the other direction (L) a food supermarket in the basement of a department store. Also a post office was just across and down the street (L) and around a corner. A short walk to the Vatican (R), the USO (for us military types, to email, get tours, coffee, and exchange pocket books), and to the Tiber River (St. Angelo's Castle). Actually, all of Rome was quite accessible on foot for the hardier walkers. I did, however, take advantage of the excellent weekly rate for the subway and used it most of the time to quickly get to all of the points of interest. Then I spent hours walking from the subway stops, wandering around this most historic of cities. When you eat out or shop in privately owned places, watch your change. We are so used, in the US to just grab the money and hustle out, that we usually don't look closely. Anyway, by now it's all in Euros, which are close to the Dollar in value and make quick visual and mental accounting easier. When I was there, all was still in thousands and even hundreds of of thousands of Lira and massive "mix-ups" could easily be constructed. I swear (and boy did I ever) that I got ripped off at a sandwich shop (Trattoria) right across the street from Hotel Jolie. I had just come from a cash automat and had withdrawn some money. I paid for a tuna sandwich with a 50,000 Lira bill (one of two that I had gotten from the machine), and the change, when I counted all of that "funny-money" after I stepped out of the shop, showed me that the guy gave me change on 20,000 Lira. However, there is no such bill, which I immediately told them. He suddenly spoke no more English and his wife came out to protest his innocence. They took me for about $15. A very expensive sandwich. There was nothing I could do, and they knew it. They were secure in the fact that without witnesses not even police could (or would) do anything against them. It's always open season on tourists in Rome. All in all, I found the Italians pleasant enough to deal with and the women often spectacular. One of the most gorgeous women was wearing a nun's outfit (could have been a sister in a hospital) helped me out in the big food store next door. Another one I remember, maybe in her 30s, little halter top, Jeans, long, long hair, awesome figure and face, sitting on her moped, looking positively stunning. Every Wednesday the Pope holds a public audience in front of St. Peter's Dome. The yells of "Papa! Papa!" still ring in my ear and the excited crowd was climbing on top of the chairs, thus ruining my attempts to get a good picture of the pope as he came buy very close. Being not at all religious, this was still a spectacle to behold and the power of religion and of this one individual was very apparent and, I believe, from the anthropological perspective, a significant event to behold. The cathedral is a grand and eye-popping structure, built from the ripped-off (literally) marble of many of the ancient Roman artifacts around the city. The beautiful Forum Romanum was virtually stripped of all of its marble, as was the Coliseum, that once had been totally encased in white marble. Those places were the quarries for the eager builders of the Christian churches of Rome. When I was wandering around the massive Coliseum, I hear the loud lamenting of one Italian tourist guide that sounded like "...anda the pope rippe off all of de marbele offa this place..." as he was leading a large tour of American tourist through the countless vomitoria of that ancient arena. I guess, the Christians thought it only a fair turnabout, but what a sight the original structure must have been. Today, there remains just one little strip of white marble and a few steps that remained of all of the former glory. Being August, the crowds were not as thick as they are during the more moderately hot months. The heat was oppressive and a head-cover, I had brought a white baseball cap, is essential. By 11:30 you want to be indoors. I headed home, did laundry in my shower, which saved probably $8 and then hanged the stuff to dry in front of the window. By night everything was dry and ready to wear. In the streets, around the middle of the day there is little movement. Kids are lying around the sidewalks, wherever there is shade and even beggars barely had the energy to accost you. The Indian bra salesman, next to his sidewalk cart piled high with bras, seemed to have collapsed. The traffic, on the other hand, races around unabated. I feared Sicily and Greece would be even worse. Still, so you nap in the middle of the day and then head out again in the late afternoon. When in Rome, definitely do as the Romans do. While the Metro is certainly a quick way around the city, during the late summer afternoon rush hour it can be horrible. It's hot, sweaty, and packed, and I'd work up quite a sweat just riding it. Stepping out into the open air becomes something to look forward to and people surge to the exits. It's just about a race to get there first.

an email:

It's sooo hot here and oh these women aren't helping. Flashing eyes, and probably flashing tempers and oh so fleshy bodies. They are really something to watch and very forward with their stares. All giggles and jiggles and very femininely dressed, and almost all with long flowing hair.
It's 2100 (9pm) and I'm still walking. Looked at the Forum in the dark (it's illuminated) and then ranged around it a bit. There is just an infinite amount of stuff to be seen here. Much more than I will ever have time for. Anyway, last night was rip-off night. Went into a place to get a sandwich and they short-changed me. I caught it in the door, and both man and women swore that I was wrong. They took me for $15. I was sooo pissed and frustrated. Cantiani Bar & Grill. Right across from the Hotel Jolie. I will put their name on my website. Pass it on to guide book publishers and to the USO, that I found near the Vatican. I should tell the Pope about it tomorrow. It finally cooled down a little. It is almost unbearably hot here, but I am managing. I have not exercised and feel terrible about that too, but the heat is sapping me, plus the hours and hours of walking around in it. I was guided to a super marked today. Labeling in Italy is virtually nonexistent. At least I got some milk and some cereal. The croissant-and-roll breakfast is getting old, though as usual, the coffee is good. I told management to at least think about the possibility of offering a cereal and yogurt alternative.

Well, I was going to go to Pisa tomorrow, but put the trip off for one day to visit the Pope instead. At the USO (United Services Organization, for those not in the know - think Bob Hope) I found out that the Pope gives a public audience every Wednesday, and the USO has a close-by section reserved for their guests. I just want to go to see all of the pageantry and hullaballoo that goes on. Got an inkling of it today. Endless processions of clergy, monks, nuns, and uniformed Christian organization people, walking and praying their way into the plaza. I can just see it when the Pope actually makes and appearance. So, I hope for some good shots tomorrow. I was told that it may be quite possible that with a small group we will be taken inside, because of the heat. Well, you'll hear all about it tomorrow. I should go twice and become the "twice-blessed man" he he.

After the excellent icecream in Vienna, and the lousy gelati in Venice, I was advised by two young Roman women that the absolutely finest icecream in Rome can be found at Geoletti's near the government center off Via Del Corso. No kidding. It is the Holy Grail of icecream. I gave the guy $3.50 and a medium sized cup and a tip, and told him to scoop around and gather flavors. It was absolutely wonderful and difficult to match anywhere.

Well, time to dig out my underarm deodorant for the visit tomorrow. Even bought a cheap shirt, since I didn't manage to do laundry.

Pisa:

A side trip from Rome, and a most enjoyable one. I caught an express both ways, and it made the journey swift and pleasant. It was a nice ride along the Western coastline and a relief from the heat of Rome. Cloudless southern Italian skies were replaced with coastal fog and slightly overcast skies. I loved it. Pisa's famous sights are an easy 30-minute walk from the station, including a bridge crossing. Pisa, is immediately recognizable as similar in architectural style to Florence, it was the Medici's port city after all, and has an ornate and picturesque old town center. The Palace of the Cavalieri was being worked on, and closed to the public (if it was ever open). I opted, once I was in the tourist-laden leaning tower district for a dual ticket to the Duomo and the monastery/cemetery. Marble everywhere, and the tower, still closed to the public, was at last, for the first time, after an eight-year European Union salvage operation, visible without external scaffolding. At least my timing was right. The Duomo was quite interesting, but much smaller that it's gigantic counterpart in Florence, the monastery awesome, and dazzled me with the names and statues of famous mathematicians and scientists who are entombed there. In addition there were very old murals, that had been peeled off the walls and restored, and were now shown in special rooms that protected them from the sun's destructive UV. The area, while teeming with tourists, is large enough to accommodate all, yet small enough to be easily walked about. To me it was a side trip definitely worth making. I got back to Rome with plenty of daylight and went to take in a movie (Final Fantasy in Italian, didn't understand a word, but it was all 3D special effects, so it didn't matter a lot) at Piazza Barberini, and then spent some computer time at one of the international Internet and Everything places I had been frequenting all over Europe (right next to the movie theatre). Finally, very late, I walked through the warm night to the Forum Romanum which appeared a little more impressive, mysterious and less ravaged in the tasteful night-time illumination.

Views of Pisa

I started my last day here with a leisurely visit to the St. Angelo castle. It is actually the emperor Hadrian's Mausoleum since ancient Roman days, but has since been taken over by Popes and others. Last it was a prison. It's that massive circular building inside of star-shaped outer defenses (added later, of course) right at the edge of the Tiber River. After that I braved the heat of the day to go to the St. Peters Cathedral. I haven't been inside yet, and figured I'd take care of that while on my way to the Sistine Chapel. The cathedral is tremendous. Very wide, spacious, and incredibly richly ornamented. More than any other church or cathedral I've seen so far. I walked away, duly impressed. Naturally, the traffic of glassy eyed tourists is particularly heavy here, but the vaulting structure is so huge, that it easy absorbs this and probably much heavier traffic without appearing crowded at all. After a long, long walk along the high walls around half of Vatican City finally took me to the entrance that read Sistine Chapel. The throngs were awesome here and the hallways not very wide and at times it felt like being aboard a crowded subway. Right at the beginning there is an option to visit the Vatican's small Egyptian collection and I couldn't turn that down. Little did I realize that I had just embarked on the "long" tour. No regrets. I soon finished the small but nice Egyptian section and entered a huge courtyard. Part of the structure appears to date to Roman times, but without precise information I was not sure, however, the yard was packed with Roman and older funerary items, sarcophagi and the like. There was also a mammoth bust of Augustus. Well, that all was nothing, merely an appetizer. From here on, once back inside, it was room after wonderful room, most designed by an architect named Michelangelo, yes, the one and only, and filled with an unbelievable number of artifacts, statues, and things so unique that they can be seen nowhere else on earth. The sheer numbers of items put any of the museums I have seen this on trip to shame. The Museo Vaticano, Sistine chapel aside, is worth an entire day. There are rooms with statues just of animals. Others, with large sculptures that one recognizes from having seen in textbooks. Speaking of large sculptures, Michelangelo's Pieta, located inside of the St. Peters Cathedral, in spite of the madman's hammer attack some years back, is looking absolutely perfect and beautiful. Since then, alas, it is protected by a large sheet of bullet (and hammer-) proof glass. After numerous rooms filled with priceless antiquities, I came to the Medieval tapestry room. Walls and walls of them. From here, having pretty much circled half of VC on the inside, one enters the early Papal residence and another slew of rooms, each more decorated and painted then the next. At this point the Dodge Palace and the Medici Palazzio are beginning to fade and recede into the distant jumble of fancy homes such as Versailles and Ludwig of Bavaria's castles. This was totally overwhelming, and I still haven't yet gotten to the Sistine chapel itself. More rooms and a complete circle of the Papal quarters was made. On top of this, there was surely a gallery of paintings or a series of rooms somewhere, which I hadn't gotten to, but I did very quickly sweep through the religious article museum.

A scene from "Trading Places" sprang to mind where a suddenly wealthy Eddie Murphy was assured by the butler, that all he saw and touched was really his. Here goes: The newly appointed Pope enters the museum (old Papal Quarters) and the curator says, " No need to hide the sepulcher with rubies under your robes, your holiness. This all belongs to you now".

"You're telling me all of this is mine, right?"

"That is correct, your holiness."

"You mean I can take this stuff and sell it, right?"

"If you feel it is necessary, yes" The curator smiles benignly.

"So this pure gold shepherd's crook with diamonds is mine, right?"

"Yes, your holiness", sighed the old curator.

The newly appointed Pope juggles it and drops it" "Oops, sh...!"

"Don't worry, your holiness, we will have the Vatican museum restoration shop bend it back into perfect shape according to historical drawings and photo records we have available."

...... Heh, heh! My warped sense of humor.

The rooms are absolutely out of this world and the mind numbs with endlessly sculpted, gilded, or grandly painted ceilings and walls. Finally, a stairway leads down, while a voice in many languages advises the visitors that taking pictures and being noisy in the Sistine chapel is not allowed. I stepped into the room and had one of the very few truly awed and chills-down-the-back experiences. The huge, high-ceilinged chapel, seemingly covered from top to bottom with paintings lies before me. The place is totally packed, with many people sitting along the walls on benches. Getting away from some heavy body odor, I finally find a little open space right in the center, and am at peace looking up and above me is the painting that was replicated on one of the walls of my high school in Germany, the one where God, surrounded by angels, reaches toward man (Adam?). That one, and the expulsion from paradise, and on, and on, they are all there. You've seen them in books and films, but it just is never quite the same. Nothing equates the experience of being cocooned here in the center of Michelangelo's vision and actually see his result of years of labor, frustration and final triumph. The restoration and cleaning of the paintings was done exquisitely and they look totally fresh, like just recently painted.

The only sore spot in the event, aside from forgivably bored kids, was an American student, I believe of Filipino extraction, and his Caucasian buddy, who were threatened with expulsion for trying to secretly video cam the ceiling. So went the afternoon. The Museum closes at 3 pm and I suggest that a visit should start early and you set aside the entire day. It is well worth it.

Later I tried to unload by mailing some stuff back, but the post office was closed. It closes at two in the afternoon during the week and at noon on Saturdays. Got to get that done prior to my departure to the airport tomorrow morning.

Near the Forum is also an extensive ruin of an old Roman marketplace. In fact, that whole area is packed with Roman remains. I visited Nero's palace and snickered at the Italians in Roman Legionnaire's uniforms, making themselves available for tourist photos all around the area. There are some real clowns among them. Everyone was having a good time. The great triumphant gates are massively impressive and beautifully carved, and the old senate chamber in the Forum is awe-inspiring. But there is also the more modern side of Rome to enjoy. Via Veneto, with all of its expensive restaurants and shops, and a lovely old US embassy building, the various fountains, all lovely works of art, and of course the Spanish steps. Run them all for health, I did. Near the Forum is also a huge and embellished monument for Italian war heroes. I guess the smaller the participation, the grander the monument. Come to think of it, they were in a number of African campaigns with Germany's troops in WW II. Lots of great shopping as well, and near the government center, off Via Del Corso, you will find the finest ice cream in the world for sale at Geoletti's. Spend time wandering the streets and enjoy the view and window-shopping. Nearby, you will also find the Pantheon, a huge concrete-dome-covered building that once was dedicated to all the gods, known and unknown. Today, of course, it is an all-Catholic shrine and all of the statues of the old Roman and Greek gods have been removed from their niches. Even though there is a large circular opening in the concrete dome, I was told that it never needs to be covered, that even in heavy rain, the interior stays dry. I assume that all of the warm air from the inside vents through there and prevents any rain from coming in.

Greece lured me and it was, alas, time to pack the bags once again. On the day of my departure, waiting for the train to the airport, I ran into this stout guy, a forty-something, bullet-headed, friendly and wide-faced janitor from, he had it written in his hand to show people, Maine. I told him that I knew Maine. He missed his home terribly and wondered if his friends back home were thinking that he was lost somewhere. He had been in Europe ONE night! He had arrived the previous night at the airport, took a very expensive cab ride into town, thought he had been ripped off, and probably was. He spent the night in the hotel. Never set foot in town, then, the next morning he headed straight for the station to make a connection with his cruise ship that was to take him around the Med for 10 days and then, blessedly home. He will be the hero of his circle of friends, hopefully less limited than he, for the rest of his life. Not really a traveler, yet he had the guts to try this. On the ride through the outskirts of Rome, he kept asking me if certain buildings were really old. Most of what he pointed at was post WW2. When I finally pointed at a Roman artifact, he had his head in one of his two huge bags to rummage for a sandwich, which he finally produced with a big grin on his happy face, all of Rome, blissfully forgotten for the moment. The airport is huge, very modern, and in a typically Italian way, things were in constant turmoil. Stoic officialdom, clashing with impatient tourists. While standing in one of the lines, I even listened to lost a aircrew, looking for their plane. It was not very confidence inspiring. At last, and quite late, the aircraft to Athens took off. The flight was mercifully short, when compared to the originally planned 18 hour ferry ride from Brindisi. It would have just taken too much of my limited trip time, to spend 36 hours on boats.