The water tower of Camp Bonifas reads, Joint Security Area (JSA). And Our last stop. There were no more tourists other than military connected people at this point. Even the wife of the helicopter pilot had to wait a month to get cleared. This is serious business. We were received and briefed by members of the Military Police squadron

 

We switched buses to two provided by the military and were allowed a camera and no bags. I had to decide, long or wide. I opted for my telephoto lens. The buses took us to the center of the DMZ to Panmunjom. A name I often had heard from history and on the news, but had never expected to actually see.

 

The model, from the museum, gives you the layout. The military demarcation line runs right through those blue, UN administered, buildings. We parked in front of the Freedom Building, and then entered this alternate universe, the DMZ

 

The actual table that was used in this room, in this building, for two years and over 700 meetings, to finally end the Korean War on 27 Jul 1953 with the signing of truce agreement.

 

These guards are all, according to our MP guide, taekwondo black belts and definitely deserve respect. They are, however, probably the best trained and best fed members of the military, barring top brass, in all of North Korea. Their posture is to be a threatening one.

 

 

 

This is the full scene that we saw when we came out. A small group of regular (thin) North Korean soldiers, that I had seen briefly through the windows, goose-stepping up, were gathered and were setting up a camera. At this point I knew I had made the right decision to go long with my lens. Everyone's present, even the guy our guide nicknamed 'Bob', in front of the North Korean counter part to the southern Freedom Building. Bob was camera-shy, and when he saw me (I was the only one with a long lens) pointing it at him, he hid behind the pillar. Our MP (on the right) said that they do film the visitors on occasion. Well, today it was our turn, and I was ready for them..

 

Yup, had them cold, and this is not even 100%. Mine was the only long lens there, and they probably were not pleased. Most people come with short or wide lenses.

 

 

The North Korean guard's equipment

 

One of the 'regulars' probably wishes he were anywhere but here

 

 

After hiding, 'Bob' finally reappeared. I suddenly saw him step out
from behind the pillar. And so, I give you 'Bob'. :-)

 

No idea. This guy suddenly curled up, way low, then straightened again after a while. A cramp, maybe?

 

The Peace Building - our side. We loaded up and followed the jeep to another lookout point.

 

 

Somewhere here is a tower that stops all cell communications. The blue building in the distance was a Polish UN outpost, but is not in use anymore. Somewhere around here is also the site of the pre-planned ax-murders of two US officers by North Korean soldiers in 1976. Back then that probably would have been the right time to let the manure hit the fan. North Korea didn't have nukes then. I think the building in front, behind the trees, is the North Korean 'Peace' Museum that inronically contains the ax used during the assasinations.
A North Korean watchtower. The point where we were standing was surrounded on three sides by North Korea. Everything you see here is part of that
What we are looking at is one of two villages that are permitted to be located within the DMZ. The one in the south, called the Freedom Village, is staffed by South Korean farmers and their help. A lot of South Koreans pay exrta to get the produce from here. Those who opt to stay there, are doing very well, but have a curfew and have to have their homes locked tight by some late hour. Some of them are well-to-do absentee owners. The school there is outstanding, btw. It has 11 teachers and about the same number of students. On the other hand, this picture shows the North Korean village they call Peace Village. However, since no one lives there, most of the windows are painted on, and the houses are largely empty shells with no floors, the West calls this the Propaganda Village. It's a sham. People get bussed in there at times, and then go back to work in a nearby industrial complex.

 

Propaganda Village has the largest flag and tallest flag pole, The flag weighs about 600 lbs and needs to be lowered when it rains, because it would tear itself apart under its own weight when wet. It used to take about 50 men to raise and lower it, but now they have a motor for that.

 

Looking much closer, this, I believe, is the Kim Jong Un monument. I guess it's not so unusual for politicians to be awarded special achievement awards before they actually accomplish anything. It was done in the West as well, not so long ago.

 

From up here one also got a great view of the 'Bridge of No Return'. This is where the post-war prisoner exchanges took place, and where we learned that while we adhered to the Geneva Convention rules, the North Koreans and their Chinese allies definitely did not.
On the way back to the reception building and our own buses, we got a close look at the Bridge of No Return. We were not allowed out of the bus. In fact, I think, since Bill Clinton almost crossed into North Korea, somewhere in the middle of this bridge, it's unmarked - and I still remember that news item, no visitors are allowed on it anymore.

 

Leaving the insanity of the DMZ behind, we were happy to see the friendlier bridges of Seoul again on the way back to Osan AB.